Saturday, December 29, 2012

Key Lime Christmas


Try this easy, old-fashioned pie filling recipe with a graham cracker crust and meringue or whipped cream.

Key limes, the tiny little citrus fruits—more yellow than bright green and juicer (for their size) than the typical Mexican or Persian variety—are a Christmastime treat for me. For the last couple of years, I’ve had the pleasure of skipping a winter wonderland and spending the holidays on Key Colony Beach, located on mile marker 53 ½ in the Florida Keys.

Burdine's famous fried Key lime pie.

It’s here where the produce section at the local grocery store stocks green mesh bags filled with fresh Key limes. Where in the bottom of corner store ice cream cases sit a stack of frozen pies ready to be thawed and served. And every restaurant menu offers a classic slice or some variation on the theme. At Burdine’s, a great waterside joint, with ice cold beer, spicy fries, and a bucket on each table containing condiments and a roll of paper towels, they serve fried key lime pie—a thin layer of pie dough, filled with Key lime custard, rolled up like a little burrito, and deep fried. The Shell Man, a novel shop with shells galore, sells slices, dipped in dark chocolate on a stick, to enjoy while perusing aisles of souvenirs and curiosities.

Perfect for fresh key lime margaritas.

It’s a nice time, to spend my days away from the kitchen mostly and enjoy a weeklong life of seaside escape. Where the key limes I bring home find their way juiced into margaritas, or wedged on the rim of a rum and ginger ale, as I catch up some much needed reading and rays.

Wednesday, November 21, 2012

Perfect Pumpkin Pie Filling Recipe

Sugar pumpkins for sale at NYC's Union Square Greenmarket.
It is just one day away from my first slice of pumpkin pie this year, and I can barely wait. Sure, I could eat pumpkin pie all year long, using canned puree to make my favorite filling recipe, but why would I do such a disservice to one of America's most beloved baked goods? Because waiting until pumpkins are at the peak of their season isn't that much of a sacrifice, and homemade puree surely makes all the difference. 

Pumpkin pie recipes galore, from a cookbook published in 1927.
Just look at the recipes listed in this 1927 edition of The Donor Club Cookbook, published in Elgin, Illinois, just a hour outside of my hometown, Chicago. It has four variations on the classic pumpkin pie filling, including a handwritten recipe by its previous owner, and names the recipe that calls for homemade steamed mashed pumpkin "DeLuxe Pumpkin Pie." (Note to self: it also calls for sherry, an ingredient I will try tomorrow in my recipe.) 

Scratch bakers have long known the virtues of fresh pumpkin puree in our holiday pies--and while the canned puree works just fine when combined with extra spices, it's just not as good tasting. So take an extra bit of time and roast a pumpkin to use in your filling this year, by following my simple recipe:

ROASTED SUGAR PUMPKIN PUREE
1. Cut a sugar pumpkin into quarters; remove and discard seeds.
2. Place the pumpkin skin side down in a shallow baking dish. Fill the dish with about ½" of water. Cover tightly with foil.
3. Bake at 375°F until fork tender, about 1 hour.
4. Let cool until just warm, scoop flesh from skins, and puree smooth in a food processor.

And if you want to follow my advice even further, combine your homemade puree with the rest of the ingredients in my perfect pumpkin pie filling recipe.

PERFECT PUMPKIN PIE FILLING
1 ½ cups Roasted Sugar Pumpkin Puree
4 large eggs
1 large egg yolk
¾ cup heavy cream
1 tablespoon molasses
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
Finely grated zest of ½ an orange
½ cup light brown sugar
½ teaspoon fine sea salt
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
¼ teaspoon ground ginger
¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg
1 unbaked pie crust

1. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 325°F.

2. In a large mixing bowl, whisk together all of the ingredients (except the pie crust) until completely smooth. Pour the mixture into the unbaked pie crust and bake until custard is set through the center when the pie plate is slightly jiggled, 50 to 60 minutes. Let cool to room temperature and refrigerate until chilled. 

Happy Thanksgiving!

Tuesday, October 30, 2012

What to Bake During a Hurricane


Funnel Cakes!! Just one of the many desserts made for my first cookbook photo shoot, Summer 2011.
This is the third hurricane I've weathered in that last 14 months (thank you, Irene, Isaac, and now Sandy). And I am now quite the master of baking up a storm...during a storm!
Hurricane Irene -
While under threat in NYC two summers ago, I was in the midst of baking 30 different desserts for my cookbook's first photo shoot, which was scheduled the day Irene was supposed to hit. Luckily, the hurricane downgraded to a tropical storm and I didn't lose power. But if I had...I would have opened a pop-up bakery on my Brooklyn block.

Prep for Peach Hand Pies, Summer 2011.

Hurricane Isaac - 
In New Orleans this August, I planned to finish my cookbook manuscript. Well, that didn't happen on time due to the Category 1 storm that took the entire city out of commission. The weather was an unbearably hot and humid 90 degrees, but softening butter took no time at all. When combined with some seriously overripe fruit (that's what happen when you don't have A/C for several days in New Orleans), a breakfast of freshly-baked Banana Muffins with Oatmeal Streusel made me feel civilized.

Blueberry-Almond Tart, Summer 2011

Hurricane Sandy -
As I am working on my latest round of my cookbook edits (again, I am past due...), the Hurricane, named after my editor (Oh the irony!), has stormed in and set me back. Oh well. I'm going to go bake some of my Double Chocolate Chip Cookies...

Wednesday, October 17, 2012

Confection Tasting in San Francisco


This is just the first 25 confections I was tasked to eat last Sunday at the 3rd annual Good Food Awards. After lunch, which included a visit to Bar Tartine for a most amazing snack of peach leaf and roasted buckwheat tea and chicken katsu on Langos--potato fry bread sandwich, I had to taste at least 15 more candies.

Just imagine how I must have felt after eating what is equivalent to an entire heart-shaped box of Valentine's Day chocolates...pretty sick. So what did I do to recover? Visited Tartine Bakery for the world's largest gougeres--gruyere and black pepper cheese puffs.

I'm quite happy to be back in NYC where I will not be eating candy for at least a week. Best of luck to the entrants of this year's confection category--there were some phenomenal sweets submitted by great artisanal candy-makers from all over the US. So lucky to have been there to enter my vote!

Thursday, October 4, 2012

What's In Season: Pears


Apple season is in full swing, but don't let that distract you from autumn's more understated and elegant fruit. The luscious pear is in all of it's glory right now. From the sweet, juicy Anjou to the tiny, cinnamon-scented Seckel, there's a spectrum of flavors, textures and aromas to choose from. Visit your local farmers market and have fun checking out varieties you're not familiar with. Who knows? The next time you get a hankering for pie, you might find yourself peeling pears instead of apples!

Pairs well with:
  • Almond
  • Apple
  • Caramel
  • Chestnut
  • Chocolate
  • Citrus
  • Ginger
  • Vanilla
  • Walnut

What to make/eat:

1. Poached Pears- Peel pears and bring to a simmer in a large pot with about 2 1/2 cups red wine, 1/2 cup of sugar, a cinnamon stick and any other warming spices you feel like adding (cardamom would be nice). Stir to dissolve the sugar and reduce the heat to low, cooking the pears until tender. If making ahead, store the pears in their poaching liquid.

2. Honey Roasted Pears- Peel, core and coarsely chop pears. Toss with honey, the seeds of a vanilla bean and a 1/2 teaspoon of lemon juice. Roast at 375 degrees until fragrant and slightly toasted, about 15-20 minutes. Top with a dollop of creme fraiche.

3. Brown Butter Pear Crisp- Make a crisp topping by mixing together 1 1/2 cups flour, 1/4 cup brown sugar, 1 cup of chopped nuts of your choice (almonds, walnuts or pecans would all work) and a 1/4 teaspoon salt. Melt 3/4 stick butter and slowly drizzle it into the dry ingredients. Stir until large crumbs form. Peel, core and chop pears. Toss with 1/3 cup sugar, 1 TBSP flour, 1/4 tsp salt and the seeds of a vanilla pod. Melt 1/2 stick of butter, swirling the pan, until it becomes brown and fragrant. Mix the brown butter in with the pears. Pour the filling into a baking dish, top with the crumble and bake at 400 for 30 minutes, or until the filling is bubbling. Try your best to let the crisp cool before you dig in!

Tuesday, September 18, 2012

Back to School Baking




This time of year always makes me feel like a kid again. With a bit of melancholy, I know the freewheeling days of summer are over. But it's the start of a new year, so to speak, and good things are ahead! Fall schedules tend to be more hectic, so what's the answer to this change in season? What kind of desserts will get us through? Simple ones. The kinds of treats you craved when you were a kid. And the kinds of desserts you can make once and enjoy for the next month.

Here are a few lunchbox-friendly ideas:

* Make a double batch of your favorite cookie dough (chocolate chip, oatmeal raisin, sugar). Bake a few cookies right away, for instant gratification, then shape the rest of the dough into a log. Wrap well in plastic and freeze. Slice and bake the rest of the cookies whenever you have time... or get a craving.

* Did you know you can freeze brownies? Not that a pan of them is very hard to polish off, but it's good to know in case you'd like to keep some extras on hand. Bake a second pan, portion them out, wrap individually in plastic and freeze. Who knows? You might love the frozen kind even more.

* Granola is one of those borderline breakfast items. Depending on what you mix into it, you might actually consider it a dessert. Whatever you call it, fall is the perfect time to whip up a big batch. Stock up on ingredients in the bulk section of your grocery store and double or triple your recipe. You can freeze whatever you don't plan to eat within a week.


What are you baking this fall?

Friday, September 14, 2012

Apple Pie Season

Image via Time Out New York magazine


It's September, which marks the official start of Apple Pie Season (in my book). The markets are ripe with heirloom varieties of all shapes and sizes–and it's finally cool enough to turn on your oven! To get you inspired, here's a link to my entry in Time Out New York's best apple pie contest from a few years back: Farmers' Market Cortlandt Apple Pie with Pecan-Oatmeal Streusel. It won a not-too-shabby third place. 


Here's hoping it will inspire a pie bake-off of your own! 

Thursday, August 30, 2012

The Last Photo Shoot




Big sigh. A week ago I wrapped up the very last photo shoot for my forthcoming cookbook. One year of recipe testing, baking, and styling over the course of five shoots... I can't believe it's over! Well, almost over. I'm finishing up my manuscript and doing some final recipe tweaking in New Orleans this week. After that, it's on to book design, marketing plans and publicity tours. And eventually I'll get to share some sneak peeks with you. 


Until then, here are some photos from the last shoot:



My über-talented photographer, Pernille Pedersen, and prop stylist, Michelle Wong, inspect the backdrop to make sure it's perfect.


It always amazes me how differently the shot appears on a computer screen. We nailed this one!


Here I am, garnishing a very adorable ice cream cake. After we got the shot, everyone whipped out their iPhones to take a picture. 



At the end of the first day we shot a new header for the blog. My assistant, Junita Bognanni, and I couldn't resist posing next to it (and yes, it was not easy getting up off that floor...).


The last shot! We ended with a trio of spumoni-inspired brioche ice cream sandwiches.


After cleaning and packing up, we walked down the street for a celebratory meal at Buttermilk Channel. Thank you ladies!! I couldn't have done it without you. Until the next project...

Wednesday, August 15, 2012

Kickstart Cissé!


The race is on! From now until September 9th, Cissé Trading Co. is raising $20,000 on Kickstarter to complete our first production run. We've sourced the best fair trade cocoa we could find from the Dominican Republic, spent countless hours perfecting our recipes, and now we need your help to get our mixes in stores this fall. 

Check out the video above and click on our Kickstarter Project to learn more.

We have some awesome–and oh so sweet–rewards for our backers. A surprise dessert recipe card? The entire Cissé product line delivered to your doorstep? A private baking lesson with me? Click here to check out all the options.

You can help us make it to the finish line by spreading the word. Post a link to to your Facebook page, Tweet it to your followers, and pass the message on to your sweets-loving friends. Please don't forget, Kickstarter is an all-or-nothing model. Let's keep the momentum going until we've reached our goal. Then we can all celebrate with a big plate of Cissé brownies!

Thank you to Serious Eats for the shout-out and thanks to all who've already supported us!!

Wednesday, August 8, 2012

2012 Good Food Awards

Image via Good Food Awards


Calling all candy lovers!

I'm a judge for this year's Good Food Awards in San Francisco. It's an award that recognizes food producers across the country for both good taste and socially responsible production. New this year is the confection category. That's where you come in! Know of anyone making all-around awesome candy? Better yet, are you making artisinal candy that you'd like to introduce to the wider world (or see on Whole Foods' shelves)? If so, check out the Good Food Award entry form here. And pass the word on. I would love to taste your confections come October!

Wednesday, August 1, 2012

What's In Season: Peaches



Is there anything more intoxicating than a ripe peach? The scent alone is sensory overload. And that's before you bite into the tangy, sweet flesh, letting the juices dribble down your chin (there's just no ladylike way to properly enjoy a peach). Since last week I've been keeping a bowl of them on my kitchen table. And I'll probably keep that bowl full right up until this delicious part of summer ends. Peaches are in season late July through early August. So go fill up your fruit bowl now!

Pairs well with:
  • Raspberries, blueberries and blackberries
  • Herbs, such as basil, thyme, lavender and cilantro
  • Bourbon
  • Honey
  • Vanilla

What to make/eat:

1. A classic lattice-top peach pie
2. A rustic cobbler. Try adding blackberries or blueberries into the mix.
3. Cut peaches in half, sprinkle with turbinado sugar and grill. Drizzle with honey, and top with ice cream or mascarpone.
4. Make an old school Peach Melba: simmer halved peaches in water, sugar and a split vanilla bean. Serve the poached peaches with vanilla ice cream and raspberry sauce (blend fresh raspberries with sugar and a bit of lemon juice).
5. For a spin on raw peaches, slice and then macerate with the finely chopped herb of your choice.

Wednesday, July 25, 2012

More Almonds, Please!

Image via the Almond Board of California

I don't need an excuse to eat more almonds (our love affair is already quite public), but maybe you do.

Well, here it is: According to a study conducted by scientists at the U.S. Department of Agriculture, almonds have 20% fewer calories than previously thought. Using a new method of calorie-counting that takes digestibility into account, a one-ounce serving of whole almonds was found to be 129 calories rather than 160.

But you know what hasn't changed? The taste. Almonds are just as sweet and nutty as ever. No matter what the calorie count, I will keep on eating almonds raw, toasting them, and mixing them into my fruit crisps. Now I just may be eating more of them!

Wednesday, July 11, 2012

Swedish Cinnamon Roll Showdown



While in Stockholm last week, I went on a mission to find the best cinnamon rolls, better known as Kanelbullar, in the entire city. After asking several Swede friends of mine, including a local restaurant critic, I was told two places–Cafe Saturnus and wait for it...7-Eleven. Yes, that's right. I just said 7-Eleven.

So, off I went. Luckily it wasn't too difficult of a mission, as there is a 7-Eleven just around the corner from Cafe Saturnus (and just about every other destination in Stockholm).


At Cafe Saturnus, the bakers have been making
kanelbullar since 1960 and by now, they've perfected their recipe. The roll was HUGE, the dough was not sweet at all, had lots of coursely ground cardamom throughout, was moist in the center, yet crispy and chewy on the outside. It had just the right amount of cinnamon filling, with a nice thin glaze, topped with tons of course sugar. If I had to make one suggestion, a tad bit more salt in the dough would have made it the best cinnamon roll in the world.



The 7-Eleven kanelbullar (surprisingly!) wasn't bad at all. It was quite moist, but lacked the changes in texture that a homemade cinnamon roll has. It had a nice amount cardamom in it's dough, but I didn't love the variety of cinnamon they used–too strong. There was no glaze, but it did have a good scattering of course sugar on top. For just 16 SEK, and the convenience of being available 24 hours a day, I can't complain too much.

The verdict:  Cafe Saturnus won. (Thankfully, right?!) And if you are in Stockholm anytime in the next 50 years, I suggest you make a trek to have a
kanelbullar as big as your head. You'll be a bit overwhelmed by their size, but then, you'll look down at the sparrows at your feet and realize you have no crumbs to share–because you just ate an entire bun yourself!



Friday, July 6, 2012

How to Beat a Heat Wave


It seems like just yesterday I was fantasizing about summer. Well, the wait is over! It's as hot as it's ever going to be. In a few days I leave Scandinavia behind, where it has been perfectly cool and lovely...to come home to New York, where it's blazing hot. Ugh. I really don't think I'm ready for the city heat.

But...my plan to beat this year's summer heat wave is with ice cream. Or gelato. Or sorbet. Or granita (with a little booze mixed in for a fun slush!). You get the idea. Just like me, I suggest you eat lots of it this summer, too.

What's your favorite hot weather treat? I'm always looking for new ideas (and excuses to eat sweets!).

Friday, June 29, 2012

Fancy Food Show: Top 10 Sweets

Last week I had the pleasure of attending the Fancy Food Show in Washington, D.C. I was there to present Cissé Trading Co. for the first time. Good news–we were a big hit! Everyone loved our products and said we had the BEST brownie at the entire show. I really couldn't ask for more. The icing on the cake was getting to check out everyone else's sweet treats. Here's a gallery of my top 10 favorites:

That Indian Drink's Mango Lassi


Steve's Ice Cream- Banana Pudding Flavor


Flavored syrups from Morris Kitchen


Bonnie's Jams–Black & Blue flavor


Veggie Mama's Sweet Potato Pie Pop


Luna Pops–Rhubarb Lime!


Lark Fine Foods–Black Olive Shortbread


Madyson's Marshmallows


Sarabeth's Strawberry Syrup


Big Picture Farm–Goat's Milk and Chai Caramels

And a savory bonus:

Average Joe Artisan Bread Kit


Monday, June 18, 2012

What's In Season: Cherries


June marks the beginning of fresh fruit heaven. And if you're like me, the dizzying array of berries and stone fruit–in season at the same time!–is cause for celebration. I wait all year long for this. But for cherries, I slow down and take pause. Could there be a more perfect fruit? Plump, ripe cherries eaten fresh out of the bowl need no adornment. And when baked, cherries go to even sweeter heights. Classic sweet cherry varieties such as the Bing and the golden Rainer are in season now. Sour cherries, ideal for pies, come into season later in the month.

Pairs well with:
  • Almonds
  • Black Pepper
  • Chocolate
  • Vanilla


What to make/eat:

  1. Rinse, pile high in your prettiest bowl, and eat!
  2. Bake a pie. Second only to apple, cherry pie is a classic American dessert.
  3. Make brandied cherries. Macerate cherries in brandy, sugar, and a bit of lemon juice. Use the fruit to embellish cocktails or to top an ice cream sundae.
  4. Go French and make Clafoutis, a simple baked custard studded with cherries.
  5. Mix cherries into your favorite bundt cake or muffin recipe.


What's your favorite way to eat cherries?

Thursday, May 24, 2012

Baking with Herbs


Summer is not just ideal for baking with fruit, it's the perfect time to experiment with fresh herbs. Visit any farmer's market and you'll see the selection is bountiful–and cheap! I love using herbs in my desserts–they are the perfect floral or spicy counterpart to something sweet. Run your hand through the woody stalks of a rosemary plant, pinch a plump basil leaf between your fingers. Let the unique fragrance of each herb open your mind to the creative possibilities!

Some pairings to get you started:

Basil: apricots, blueberries, citrus, honey, nectarines, peaches, raspberries, strawberries, vanilla, watermelon
Lavender: almonds, blackberries, blueberries, cherries, citrus, honey, peaches, pistachios, raspberries, rhubarb, strawberries, vanilla, walnuts
Mint: blackberries, chocolate, citrus, mango, raspberries, strawberries
Rosemary: apricots, citrus, figs, grapefruit, honey
Sage: blueberries, cherries, citrus, pears, pumpkin, walnuts


Some ideas to get you started:

  • Macerate blackberries with fresh mint
  • Steep whipping cream with dried lavender
  • Infuse cherry compote with sage
  • Roast apricots with rosemary and honey
  • Grind dried lavender with sugar
  • Top your strawberry shortcake with thinly sliced basil

What's your favorite herb? What dessert does it inspire you to make?

Thursday, May 10, 2012

Pie Season


Are you ready for pie season? Because it's just around the corner.... Yes, I love autumn pies–apple, pumpkin, and pear. But really, I'm obsessed with spring and summer fruit pies. The minute strawberries and rhubarb start hitting the farmer's market, I know that cherries, blackberries, and raspberries aren't far behind. And don't get me started on stone fruit!

Because the seasons can be short for each fruit, it's good to know when to get your bake on. Here's a sense of what's in season and when:


May/June- Rhubarb, strawberries, cherries
June/July- Apricots, plums, blueberries
July/August- Blackberries, raspberries, peaches, nectarines

Until my cookbook arrives on book shop shelves, here are some of my favorite pie and tart cookbooks to get you inspired (most of which are recommended by Junita at
Stack of Cookbooks):